• Sashiko in Tillamook

    In a couple of weeks I will be in Tillamook again teaching at the Latimer Quilt and Textile Center. This time I will give a class on Sashiko – Japanese hand stitching that is a cross between embroidery and quilting. Like quilting, it is a running stitch often stitched through one or more layers of fabric but the stitches are larger and rendered in thicker thread. The prominent stitches coupled with the lack of batting between the layers, place it closer to the realm of embroidery.

    Sashiko is considered a rustic ‘folk art’ as opposed to the elegant Japanese silk embroidery that might grace a precious Kimono or silk panel. As a folk art , Indigo fabric with white or off-white thread is traditional. Indigo is easily grown in many climates and is a common natural dye making it accessible and affordable to all. Sometimes you might see a natural color fabric with Indigo thread though these days anything goes and Sashiko thread and fabrics come in many colors.

    Sashiko fabric, typically made of cotton (sometimes a blend of cotton and linen), is a looser and coarser weave than domestic quilting cottons making it easier to stitch with the large needles and threads used in the stitchery. You will not usually find it in regular quilt or fabric stores. Two good sources are: One World Fabrics and Shibori Dragon. One World Fabrics is online only (though local to Portland) while Shibori Dragon sells online but also has a retail store up near Tacoma WA. You will also find an assortment of Sashiko thread and needles at both shops.

    Of course, you can stitch Sashiko on any fabric that you can get the needle and thread through hence my samples shown below of Japanese Yarn Dye fabrics. I have also stitched on Linen and denim (though denim is hard to pull the needle through) as well as a variety of domestic cotton fabrics. The thread can also be substituted if you cannot find authentic Sashiko thread. I find Floche (made by DMC) is a very acceptable substitute but I have also used linen thread, wool thread and even Pearl Cotton. Pearl cotton is rejected by many ‘purists’ as it has a distinctly visible twist. Susan Briscoe (author of a number of books on Sashiko) advises against using it. Speaking of Susan Briscoe, of the numerous books she has written on the subject of Japanese quilting my favorite is The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook. It lives up to its name as being the ultimate book on that topic.

    The Sashiko class is scheduled for Tuesday October 20 from 10-4 at the Latimer Textile Center. The following day (Wednesday) I will be teaching a Thread Painting class there as well, but more on that in a future post.

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  • Embroidery Floss Guidelines

    A student who has enrolled in my Embroidered Folk Art Ornament class at Ocean Waves Quilt Camp in October contacted me with some questions about embroidery threads. Sometimes, when we work in a medium we love and have been using for a long time, we tend to forget that a novice does not yet have the depth of knowledge we have for the materials and it can be difficult to put all the possible details into a supply list without having it turn into ‘The Great American Novel’. I was able to answer her questions in greater depth in my reply and then it occurred to me that perhaps this might be useful information for others as well so  I am going to cover this in today’s post.

    For these folk art ornaments (see photos below), I use wool felt or Melton weight wool and a variety of brands and types of floss. My favorite is six strand cotton embroidery floss because you can use it full strength (all six strands) which gives a rustic appearance but fills up the area quickly, or you can divide it into two or three strands which creates a finer more detailed embroidery – but take at least twice as long to embroider.

    As for brands, DMC  is probably one of the most readily available and affordable and they seem to have the second largest range of colors with over 450 colors, plus they have a great variety of other types of fibers – Rayon, metallic, and some standard variegated and unusual variegated threads (the line they call ‘Highlights’). Their colors are vibrant with many subtle variations to create shading. Another of my favorites is Cosmo which is made by Lecien Corp. (who also makes the most scrumptious Taupe fabrics). They have a broad range of colors and shades of each color though not as many as DMC, however their colors have a depth to the dye that is ‘richer’ than DMC plus their basic variegated floss is more complex than DMC’s ‘basic’  (other than the Highlights line). The Cosmo floss also has a softer hand and it works up beautifully. It is expensive though – especially the variegated colors. I also LOVE the floss made by Valdani, their  variegated colors rise far above the competitors. Valdani specializes in hand-dyed floss that comes as six strand, three strand (I think they are the only company that makes this sub-divided version) and they make silk embroidery floss as well as cotton. They also make a wide range of Pearl Cotton. They are not cheap but well worth the expense. Other brands out there that I have not used that much – mainly because of access –  are Finca (made by Presencia but I could not find a website for the manufacturer) and Anchor (made by Coats & Clarks but again I couldn’t find a product specific website for them). Anchor seems to have  the largest range of colors though I don’t think their colors are quite as ‘lush’ as the other manufacturers. I also don’t see them in shops as much as the others.

    In addition to the six strand cotton floss, I also use spun embroidery thread such as Pearl Cotton and Floche, along with rayon floss and metallic embroidery thread.  These last two are rather temperamental and need to be stitched with care so I tend to use them for accents rather than in large amounts. One of the hassles with rayon thread is how springy it is; it’s hard to work with and get neat stitches but it also is squirrelly  when you take it out of a skein. A friend who teaches Brazilian Embroidery told me the way to get it to lie flat and behave is to iron it carefully on the rayon setting while pulling the floss gently under the iron, and then to store it in a channel type floss keeper.

    Other materials I add are beads and sequins. Of late, I have been very disappointed with the selection of sequins found at the big fabric and craft stores. A search online turned up a marvelous site – Cartright’s Sequins. They have an unbelievable selection of shapes, colors, sizes and types and at prices competitive with the chain stores. They also ship in flat rate packaging so if you order a lot, the shipping is even a better deal because you can stuff an awful lot of sequins into a flat rate envelope. These ornaments are not going to be subject to a lot of wear and tear so polyester quilting thread does a fine job of stitching the embellishments in place but you can also use Nymo or Silamide thread if you want extra durability.

    Add  a ‘dangle’ if desired, stuff with fiberfill and the ornament is done. I like to add jingle bells to some and tassels to others. A note about tassels – they are fairly easy to make and I save the short ends of floss that are about 3″ after tying off the stitching and then use them to make small scale tassels. Not much is wasted when I make these little treasures.

    In addition to Ocean Waves Quilt Camp, I will be teaching these at Pioneer Quilts on Sunday November 15th and possibly at A Common Thread (though that class has not been scheduled yet). Call the stores for more details or to enroll.

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  • Things With Wings

    These winged flights of fancy will capture your imagination and unlock a creative streak that you might not even know you have . One approach is more exact where you can cut fabrics using templates and in some cases create rather realistic Butterflies (below left). A more improvisational style which I enjoy more, involves simply finding interesting forms in fabric prints, simply fussy-cutting them out and then composing Butterflies springing from imagination (below right). This method is liberating and very satisfying.

    I will be offering this class at NW Quilting Expo on Friday, September 25, 2015 from 1:00 pm to 4:00 pm. In the class, students will create the fused butterflies on a Teflon pressing sheet  which can later be transferred and fused into a panel composition of their choice or used to embellish a garment or accessory. A pattern for the Japanese style scroll shown in the class catalog is included in the class handout. The kit includes a variety of  interesting fabrics to make the butterflies and the  fusible web.

    This quilt is formatted in the style of traditional Japanese Art scrolls.
    This quilt is formatted in the style of traditional Japanese Art scrolls.
    This is a more realistic approach to the collage.
    This is a more realistic approach to the collage.









    And speaking of things with wings, I have a Thread Painting class coming up on September 11 at Pioneer Quilts (whose website is finally up and running – Hooray!). There is a choice between two patterns for that class. One is a Butterfly (below left) and is eminently suitable for a novice quilter who would like to try their hand at Thread Painting while the other – a  songbird  (below right) – requires a more ‘painterly’ approach and is better suited for those who have some level of confidence with free motion stitching. Contact Pioneer Quilts to register.

    This little fellow requires some degree of color shading and is best tackled by someone that has a sense of confidence with free-motion sewing.
    This little fellow requires some degree of color shading and is best tackled by someone that has a sense of confidence with free-motion sewing.
    These lovely ladies are not difficult to make, then process is sort of like coloring  in a coloring book but using thread instead of crayons
    These lovely ladies are not difficult to make, then process is sort of like coloring in a coloring book but using thread instead of crayons